Angela Missoni is a woman's woman and with her intensely patterned but coolly controlled collection, the designer came into her own. She neither shrugged off the heritage of knit and pattern, nor was trapped by it. And there was an easy, breezy elegance to the way that Missoni played with volumes, from the print-lined black parka that opened the show, to its later chevron fur version.
"I start with the palette but I have no recipe, it just comes," said Missoni, using her hands to imitate cooking for her large extended family gathered backstage.
Missoni's program notes hailed a "simultaneous" collection, which suggested a lot of things going on at once. But the opposite was true. Using pale,christian shoes, Nordic colors for the rich Italian prints, flower patterns became pinwheel forms, perhaps as a narrow skirt played off against quiet tones of a big, beige sweater. While the upper halves were loose,christian Louboutin pumps, the skirts were tubular, just rolled under at the hem, while the cropped pants and even shorts were slender. As the models walked out in high sandals laced with ribbons, the proportions looked just right